FoodieCuisine.com

By Todd Barron @ FoodieCuisine.com

Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations

Another one of my favorite food television programs is Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations that is shown on the Travel Channel.  First of all, what can you possibly not like about a television show that has a parental content warning at the beginning?  That’s how the show starts and the warning is necessary given the prose Anthony narrates throughout.

Bourdain travels all around the World and sometimes even stays within the borders of the United States.  He always hooks up with a local guide who lives in the area he is traveling to and they provide much of the cultural anchoring.  I really enjoy listening to the stories the guides tell about their areas and the history of the food there as well as the general history of the location.  It’s fitting that the show is on the Travel Channel given it’s as much about the location as it is about the cuisine.  But foodies of the World, no need to despair, there is plenty of coverage on the cuisines of each area and the food gets top billing.

Some of his more memorable trips have been right here in the United States and I especially liked his Hunter S. Thompson throwbacks on his show about Las Vegas, Nevada.  He went south of the border once to Mexico City and after watching the show I can’t wait to go there on a food journey.  Safety issues aside, the Mexico City food looked simply amazing.  I could almost smell the street-side tacos and wanted to reach through the television to grab a few while I watched the episode.

Bourdain, while covering the food of the areas, also ventures into fun side stories along the way.  In the Mexico City episode I mentioned earlier he ends up taking a boat ride into the middle of nowhere.  In the location he finds a guy who runs a “museum” out of a shack surrounded by doll heads hanging from the trees.  It’s a surreal scene and has the sort of funky vibe I love to see in his show.

Bourdain goes on to visit war-torn countries, was even evacuated by the US Marines via hovercraft in one episode, and tries some of the strangest food you can imagine.  From the kim chi in Korea to the salted shark in Iceland there isn’t much Anthony doesn’t at least try to eat.  For the most part he says he enjoys and likes the food he tries although sometimes I’ve seen him say something is horrible.  He drinks too much, eats too much, and used to smoke too much on the shows but he gave up smoking recently.

Anthony got his start as a cook and eventually a chef in New York and has the credentials to back up his show.  He knows what he is talking about and it shows in every episode.  He got his start in show business by writing a book that became hugely popular (according to him.)  I suggest you pickup a copy if you haven’t read it yet.  It’s one of my favorite books on the food world.

As I said in the beginning, the writing used in the show makes for wonderful television and I look forward to every new episode even though I don’t always look forward to the food I will hear about.  Just don’t watch the show with young children. 🙂

By Todd Barron @ FoodieCuisine.com

Pulaski Tech

Well, it’s about time! Arkansas finally has an accredited culinary school and it’s at Arkansas Pulaski Technical College. I thought I was going to have to open my own but am happy to see one finally open in our state.

On their front page they describe themselves as:

“We are a world-class culinary, hospitality and wine training center with highly skilled faculty and staff committed to providing you with the positive, comprehensive and challenging hands-on experience you need to prepare for a variety of exciting positions in the culinary and hospitality fields.”

They school operates in the traditional semester format and costs around $2500.00 per semester before you factor in the cost of books, uniforms, and other tools.  They offer the following degrees and certificates at the school:

• Associate of Applied Science in Hospitality Management
• Wine and Spirits Studies Technical Certificate
• Associate of Applied Science in Culinary Arts
• Culinary Arts Technical Certificate

There are a wide variety of courses and levels offered to teach you in the areas of Baking, Culinary Arts, Hospitality, and even Spanish for the communicating in the workplace.  I’m especially interested in the Culinary Arts classes they have and have left a message at the school to give me a call about enrolling in them.  My hope is that other schools in Central Arkansas will follow suit and open their own programs as competition usually is not a bad thing for the consumer.

Stay tuned for additional information when I find out more from the admissions department.

By Todd Barron @ FoodieCuisine.com

Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives

Unless you have been living in a food television hole you probably have seen an episode of “Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives” on Food TV.  In case you don’t know who Guy Fieri is, he won season two of “The Next Food Network Star” on Food TV.  He hosts a few shows, one being Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.  It’s my favorite one of the bunch although I do enjoy his Ultimate Recipe Showdown that is more seasonal.

If you haven’t caught an episode of this show, you should.  Guy Fieri travels around the United States and tries out hole-in-the-wall restaurants in various states.  You will be suprised to find the food he discovers in most places.  One “diner” has a duck recipe that takes over a couple of weeks to prepare.  Another place is located next to a car wash and has “off the hook” food. 

Most places have at least one dish that looks and sounds simply amazing.  Some things don’t look that great to me but hey, you can’t win em all right?  Even with a few of the shortfalls of places he visits, the other places more than make up for lost ground.  The food looks so amazing that it makes me wish I had Guy’s career!  He covers everything from tail-gate parties to “general” drive-ins and manages to find very unique food along the way.  There are diners that have seared ahi-tuna-steak with wasabi-mayo sandwiches, blackened catfish, clam chowder (with freshly steamed clams of course,) and classics like johnny cakes. 

Guy also happens to have a book out that gives readers a chance to experience the show.  I haven’t read it yet but plan to pick it up.  Let me know if you do get it and tell me how it is.  There is no doubt I will be writing about his episodes in future posts.

By Todd Barron @ FoodieCuisine.com

Slap Yo' Daddy BBQ Tent

This last weekend the show to beat all shows was here in Central Arkansas.  I write of the Smoke on the Water USA Barbecue Championship.  While it may not have the number of contestants you see in some competitions it does have the largest prize pool with over $100,000 in prizes.  The Grand Champion sees $20,000 of that as well!  The website for Smoke on the Water USA gives this description:

“From humble beginnings in 2001 with a $5,000 purse, to the richest contest in the world today, Smoke on the Water currently offers over $400,000 in prize money with events in Arkansas – North Little Rock, Hot Springs and Springdale, at Isle of Capri Casino in Lula, Mississippi, plus major NASCAR speedways at Talladega, Daytona, Michigan and Phoenix.”

Jack's Old South BBQ Team

My wife and I traveled down to the competition on Saturday at Noon and paid the ($5) fee to gain entry.  They gave us nice yellow bracelets (as shown in some of the photos) and we went about looking around.  While most of the competitors were in a separate section, you could see quite a few in the area accessible to the public.  I ran across Slap Yo’ Daddy BBQ at the very front.  If you haven’t seen the show yet, you should search your cable or satellite TV for BBQ Pitmasters on TLC.  It’s a show about BBQ Competitions and follows a set of competitors around the Country.  Slap Yo’ Daddy BBQ is one of those competitors and we also saw Myron from Jack’s Old South BBQ at the event.  Cool Smoke, the Reserve Grand Champion winner this year, is on the show also.

I had planned on entering the competition and have been practicing my BBQ recipes for a few months now.  Being on a strict diet has made this all the more challenging given I have only been able to eat one or two bites of what I cook.  That’s ok though as I have plenty of friends willing to partake of what I have left over.  I decided to enter this year on my wife’s cousin’s team but found out that they were not entering (3) days after the entry deadline passed.  I now have the opportunity to really focus on my recipes and get my timing down for next year though as I plan to be present as a competitor.  In reality I was rushing into it this year and am a bit relieved to have a full year ahead of me to plan for the event.

This competition falls under the Kansas City BBQ Society’s pervue and therefore follows their rules.  You pay $50 to join the KCBS and are required to do so if you want to compete in their circuit.  They describe themselves as so:

THE KANSAS CITY BARBEQUE SOCIETY (KCBS), a nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting and enjoying barbeque, is the world’s largest organization of barbeque and grilling enthusiasts with over 10,000 members worldwide.

KCBS

They sanction over 300 competition around the Country and you can find them handling an event just about every weekend.  I looked and there is a competition to be found at every state that surrounds Arkansas over the next few months.  If you were so inclined you could drive to and enter every competition around the area and not run out of things to do all Summer long.  You may run out of energy though as these things require a ton of work!

I have the rules for the Smoke on the Water USA Barbecue Championship and they are right-on as far as competitions go.  You provide your own meat but must keep it packed (non-seasoned) until Friday when it is inspected.  Once the meat is inspected you then can get down to business and prepare the meat for turn-in on Saturday morning.  This doesn’t give you a lot of time and prevents some techniques from being used given the lack of time.  You start meat turn-in at around Noon on Saturday and have a couple of hours over that time to turn-in Chicken, Pork Shoulder, Ribs, and Brisket.  If you have ever done BBQ you know that each of these items takes a different amount of time and technique to get perfect; hence, the challenge to winning one of these competitions.  When you turn your food in it is done blindly (non-marked) except by number so that judges can’t be swayed by who is doing the cooking.  You are allowed to use lettuce as garnish and cannot include anything else with the BBQ such as chunky sauces or vegetables.

BBQ competitions are subjective given the nature of the proverbial beast and since food is involved you can bet the outcome is different at every event.  This means that you may be Grand Champion today but place 100th tomorrow.  It all depends on the area of the Country you are in and the tastes of the particular judge you run across when you turn your food in.  You are judged on presentation, tenderness, and taste.  The presentation part is tricky as there isn’t much you are allowed to do with your box. Tenderness and taste is completely up to you though and is where most of the points are awarded.

The Turn In Area

Judges first pass the un-altered boxes around to give points based on presentation.  Once all the presentation scores are recorded they then take a portion out of each box and proceed to give points on tenderness and taste.  You have to provide (6) portions per box to allow the judges enough to try and as you can guess this means there are multiple judges to handle the hundreds of entries. 

Organizing the Boxes

Judges are not allowed to discuss what they are eating during this whole process and can only talk about it when the scores are all complete.  Some competitors will watch the turn-in line to see where the “top dogs” are doing their turn-ins and turn their entries in at different tables.  This way they hope to avoid directly competing against certain people at judging time.  Timing is critical during turn-in as you don’t want your food to be cold by the time it gets to the judges.  It’s pretty much impossible to avoid though as the boxes have to be organized and taken to the judging area in the back.  By the time this is all said and done the food is bound to be cooled.

Nice BBQ Rig

The whole competition is over fairly quickly given that you start cooking on Friday night and turn in your food on Saturday at Noon.  The awards are announced at 5pm and then it’s turn-down time to pack up your items and go home.  This particular competition carried a $500 entry fee which alloted you the chance to win and a 20′ x 20′ location to park your tent and/or RV. 

Most people bring RVs to these events as you need a restroom, shower, and area to prepare your food.  We saw some really amazing BBQ rigs at the show and I would love to own one.  Of course I also realize that the rigs are owned by BBQ Restaurants and are not something you could most likely afford to own as a hobbyist.  I’ve read that some of the rigs go for over $100,000!  There were several smaller rigs though at the show and I saw everything from camping tents to rigs like the one pictured above.

Serial Griller

There was a lot of character present at the show with some funny team names such as “Serial Griller” and “Motley Que BBQ”.  We ate some good BBQ while we were there and left after a couple of hours.  In order to place in the overall category your scores are added up for Chicken, Brisket, Pork Shoulder, and Ribs.  This means you don’t have to be the highest in any of the (4) categories but your total score must be higher than the next person to beat them. 

At the end of the day the following were the top 20 in overall placement:

Grand Champion: Pellet Envy
Reserve Champion: Cool Smoke

Overall
1 Pellet Envy
2 Cool Smoke
3 TheSlabs.com
4 Rick’s Pit Stop
5 Big Creek BBQ
6 GoneHoggin.com
7 Smelly Butts BBQ
8 South Pork
9 Bareknuckles BBQ
10 Naaman’s Southern Expose
11 Habitual Smokers
12 Rubbin-it & Lovin-it BBQ
13 The Long Dawgs
14 KC Can Crew
15 Pig In! Pig Out!
16 High on the Hawg
17 Big T’z Q Cru
18 It Aint Prime
19 Redneck Grillers
20 Hog Tide Bar-B-Que

Congratulations to the winners and to everyone that entered this year.  Entering these competitions is no small amount of work and every single team that entered deserves respect in my book.  I’ll see you there next year, but hopefully as a competitor!

The complete list of winners can be found here.

By Todd Barron @ FoodieCuisine.com

Cook's Illustrated

A great item I have in my inventory is Cooks Illustrated Magazine.  It’s one of the many magazines I subscribe to and I look forward to it’s arrival every month.  I also subscribe to their online system that gives you access to every issue since they started.

Cook’s Illustrated contains in each issue tips, recipes, equipment reviews, and articles on things such as kitchen hygiene.

What I really respect about their recipes, and what sets them apart, are that they aren’t your ordinary recipes. The team at America’s Test Kitchen (where they are based) tries out literally hundreds of different variations of recipes to get the perfect recipe. They go through the trouble of cooking hundreds of pizza crusts to get the perfect pizza. Or they try out hundreds of different fudge recipes to get the perfect consistency of fudge. Their school of thought is that you don’t need 50 lasagna recipes, you just need one really good one. I believe in this philosophy completely and it’s the number one reason I subscribe to their magazine.

Tips

Not only does Cook’s Illustrated research each recipe in great detail but they also share tips from their readers in every issue.  I enjoy finding some of the things I do myself in type but I learn quite a bit from the new things listed in each issue.  The following are just a few examples of the many tips listed in the Jan-Feb 2010 issue:

• Measuring Spaghetti – Use empty spice jar and fill with spaghetti. Ends up with (2) servings by using this method.
• Hands-Free Seasoning – Use tongs to flip the meat.
• Preventing Ice Crystals on Ice Cream – As you scoop out ice-cream from the container, use scissors to cut away the extra container. Then put the lid back on as normal. The lack of a air cavity will help prevent ice crystals.

Recipes

No good cooking magazine is complete without recipes and of course Cook’s Illustrated has many of them.  As I mentioned before they go into great detail about the recipes and research the perfect blend of texture, cooking method, and tase with each one.  They also take into account your ability to find the ingredients which is a huge plus for me.  I don’t know if you have ever read a cookbook or magazine that lists ingredients you won’t find anywhere in the heartland, but it can be quite annoying!  The following are just some of the recipes covered in the Jan-Feb 2010 issue:

• Indoor Pulled Pork
• Better Minestrone
• Thai Chicken with Basil
• Chicago-Style Deep Dish Pizza
• Recommended Equipment
• Kitchen Fire Extinguishers
• Whole Wheat Pasta

The magazine isn’t pretty in looks but it very to the point and covers what is necessary. There are no advertisements which lets the publisher focus on content and not hundreds of pages of garbage. If you don’t already subscribe to this magazine I highly suggest it. I learn something new with each issue.

I’d like to list every restaurant native to Arkansas on this site and need your help.  If you know of ones not on my list, please send me the following information:

• Send to me at (todd [at] foodiecuisine.com)
• Name of Restaurant
• Cuisine Type (Italian, BBQ, American, etc.)
• Hours of operation
• Location
• Website link if they have one
• Brief description

Please note that I generally will not post about chain restaurants you can find in other states. 

I’ve started the list here at http://foodiecuisine.com/wordpress/?page_id=297

Thanks!

Todd

 By Todd Barron @ FoodieCuisine.com

Acadia Logo

My wife and I joined two of our great friends tonight at Acadia Restaurant in the Hillcrest area of Little Rock.  They have been open since 1999 and are open for Lunch on Monday through Friday and for Dinner on Monday through Saturday.  They are closed on Sundays which is pretty typical for the non-chain restaurants as Sunday is a rather slow restaurant day around here.

I called to make reservations earlier in the day but was told they do not accept reservations and that I shouldn’t expect much a wait with my planned arrival of 7pm.  We picked up our friends at 7pm and made it to the restaurant by about 7:15.  I really like the outside vibe of the restaurant and it has a nice wooden walk-way leading upstairs to the entrance.  It’s on a hill so this part is necessary. 

My first thought on opening the door was of dismay though as the host looked started to see someone show up.  I was further concerned as we were led to our table as I only saw three other tables with patrons.  Given Acadia has been around for eleven years I figured the lack of people was not due to the place being too new.  I was pleased to see more people show up as the evening carried on though and before we left about 90% of the dining room was filled.  It’s not a large place by any means but it is nice to see them at near capacity which generally means they are doing something right after all this time.  The decor is fine casual in nature with nice paintings and linens on the tables.  It does not appear outdated nor very pretentious which I appreciate.

We were promptly greeted by our waiter who was courteous and took our drink orders while we looked over the menus.  Acadia’s menu is what I would label as New American with items on the menu such as a Scallop Salad, Wild Alaskan Salmon with Red Onion Risotto, Blackened Beef Tenderloin with a Crawfish Compound Butter, and even a Smoked Gouda Mac and Cheese.  The soup of the day was French Onion Soup.  My wife and companions ordered the French Onion Soup ($5) while I ordered the Pan Seared Scallops with Mixed Field Greens ($11.75).  While we waited on our appetizers our drinks came along with warm bread and chilled butter.  The herbed bread rolls tasted nice although they did not appear to be freshly baked.

The French Onion soup arrived along with my scallop salad and we dug in.  This is the part where I am conflicted.  I respect any small business owner and understand how hard it can be to survive in the restaurant business for eleven years.  I wanted to enjoy my food and be excited about it.  Unfortunately, as much as I wanted to like the appetizers, I did not like them.  The French Onion soup needed salt and although they claimed it had Gruyere cheese on it, I couldn’t find it on my wife’s soup.  It just didn’t have enough flavor.  My scallops were brown from being grilled but did not have a nice crust on them.  They were cold in the middle and undercooked.  At $11.75 I expected a bit more in the scallop salad as I only received three scallops.  I had a generous portion of salad to go with the three scallops and some carrot sticks along with pickled ginger but the dressing was uneventful.  One of my scallops was grainy as well and should have been washed more thoroughly.  In the end, I didn’t like any of the starters.

When we ordered the starters (appetizers,) we also ordered our entrees.  I ordered the Blackened Tenderloin with Crawfish Compound Butter ($31.75 for 8oz) , my wife ordered the special which was a 12oz Rib-eye with Blue Cheese Grits ($30?), one companion ordered the Seared Tuna with Ginger Risotto ($18.75), and the other the Duck Breast with Mushroom Bread Pudding ($21.75).  The entrees arrived about ten minutes after our starters were taken away which put them right on time.  By this time the restaurant had started to fill up which put it at around 8:15pm. 

Acadia from Outside

Once again I find myself wishing the food was better than what I experienced.  I knew immediately something was wrong with my steak as it was hard to cut.  I ordered it Medium Rare and the side I cut into was definitely Well Done.  I had to switch to my steak knife to saw through the side of it to distribute portions to my dinner party (we were sharing after all.)  The crawfish brown butter had a nice flavor to it and my steak was seasoned well.  I couldn’t get past it being way overcooked.  I cut through the middle of the steak thinking maybe just the outside was overdone and was met with a Medium Well doneness.  It was still nowhere near Medium Rare.  My steak came with Jack Cheese grits which did have a nice flavor to them and were seasoned perfectly.  I was surprised that they offered a 4oz steak for $21.75 as I can’t imagine how tiny it would have been.  I’m not a huge food eater any more but my 8oz steak was about the right size for a restaurant steak.  A steak half it’s size would have been about five bites in size.

I tried the special my wife ordered, the 12oz Rib-eye with Blue Cheese Grits and it had a nice flavor to it.  I really liked the Blue Cheese Grits as I love a good Blue Cheese.  The Rib-eye was overcooked at Medium Well considering she ordered it Medium Rare.  It has a brown demi-glace reduction over the top which tasted good but could have used more salt.  I was also reminded of the steak sauces of the 1990s when trying it and felt that it was a bit outdated.  All in all it wasn’t bad but not something I would crave to order again.

Next up I tried my friend’s Duck Breast with Mushroom Bread Pudding.  The duck was cooked well and didn’t have too much fat on it which is always a concern.  Most places leave more fat on duck than I personally like but Acadia has this part down right.  The only problem was that I was met with an overwhelming rush of saltiness.  It was as if I was biting into a salt block.  I tried to taste the duck and focus on the texture of the bite but couldn’t get past the salt.  I next tried the mushroom bread pudding that came with the duck and it tasted good.  It did look like it had been sitting in a walk-in for a day or more though and wasn’t the most appealing thing I have ever seen.

For the last entree I tried the entree of the Seared Tuna and Ginger Risotto.  Once again I was wanting to enjoy the bite but it didn’t pan out for me.  The tuna was extremely fishy tasting which is an immediate red flag.  I cook seared tuna at home for my family and it never has an overwhelming fishy taste.  This tells me they served a less-than-fresh piece of tuna which then led me to be concerned about the rest of the food quality.  The tuna filet was nice in size and the risotto had a nice texture and flavor to it.  The fish was overcooked and not very tender as a result.  In the end I couldn’t get past the fishy taste of the filet and was put off by it.

After a few more drinks for most of the group we ordered from the dessert menu.  They offered a couple of creme brulees, a bread pudding, and a New York cheesecake.  The dessert items were not inspiring but I adore bread pudding and ordered it.  I also like chocolate creme brulee but after eating the one served at Terrace on the Greens I just can’t order it anywhere else.  Theirs is just too good.  My wife shared in my dessert while my companions ordered the chocolate creme brulee to share.

The desserts came out quickly and the chocolate creme brulee tasted very good.  It had a nice crust and was cool in the middle but not too cold.  It had a good chocolate flavor and was better than many brulees I have had.  It was not as good as the Terrace’s, but it was good.  My Pecan Bread Pudding did not have a Rum Sauce but did have a nice flavor.  I was served the corner piece of what looked like an older tray of bread pudding and it was scalding hot on the top but somewhat cold on the bottom.  Given the uneven temperature I would guess it was microwaved.  This is blasphemy in the food world as far as I’m concerned so I hope I’m wrong.  I liked the front edge of the pudding that wasn’t too crusty and enjoyed the caramel sauce dotted around the plate.

We ended the meal at around 9:15 after some coffee and after-dinner chatter.  My wife and friend’s wife were yawning a bit by this time given the busy work week so we decided to depart.  It was nice to see the place almost full on our departure and I really do hope the owners stay in business.  The food came out on time and the wait staff was very attentive with taking our orders, bringing out bread on a frequent basis, and refilling our drinks right away.  The quality of the food is what suffered though.  I don’t know if the chef is bored or maybe there isn’t one (just a line cook there maybe?)  After eleven years there is no way to know and I haven’t met with the owners personally to find out either.  I would like to get to know them and find out their passion for food and operating the Acadia someday.  I’ve always believed food should be about the people who prepare it.

When I first read of the Acadia after finding it linked from the Little Rock Chamber of Commerce website, I was excited about trying the place out.  The menu wasn’t super exciting but looked better than most.  In the end I was disappointed and it pains me to say so.  I guess it’s something I will have to get used to though as I’m not about to say something tastes good when it doesn’t.  The potential is there but unless they inject some serious passion into the place I don’t see how they can stay open another eleven years.  I will probably give them another try this summer when it’s possible to sit on the nice looking outdoor deck.  Most people do say to give places at least two tries before writing them off.  That seems fair to me so we’ll see how it goes the next time I write about them.  Until then, good luck in your own food adventures and let us know what you find out!

By Todd Barron @ FoodieCuisine.com

La Cucina Italiana Magazine

I subscribe to over a dozen food magazines and one of my favorite ones is La Cucina Italiana.  La Cucina Italiana reminds me of the recently discontinued Gourmet magazine in that it has various articles not only about the cuisine of Italy but also about the country itself.  Their coverage of the “how” and “why” is much more appealing to me than typical mass market cooking magazines.  The staff that publishes La Cucina Italiana really seems to care about Italy and the people of the country.  Their passion speaks volumes to me about their credibility and makes them deserving of support in my opinion.

An example of this not-just-food coverage can be found in their latest April 2010 issue.  One of their first articles titled “noblesse oblige” goes into detail about the region of Montepulciano.  In the article, the author Anthony Giglio writes about the wine made in the region.  He goes into detail about the wine, the people who make it, how it’s governed, and other aspects of the entire process. 

Another example of their article depth is found in the same April 2010 issue in their article titled “abbachhio alla romana.”  In the article the magazine goes into some detail on the origins of lamb and the classic Roman dish the article is named by.  According to the article, the lamb used in the authentic recipe must come from the Lazio region and be butchered there.  They also stipulate that the lamb can weigh no more than 8 kilograms.  The article continues on to discuss the origins of the recipe name along with a recipe to follow so you can cook it at home.  You can’t get Lazio lamb easily in the United States though, which is why they link you to www.localharvest.org to find a supplier of milk-fed lamb for the recipe.

I have prepared many recipes found in the magazine and they have all turned out tasty.  At the very least the technique and blend or flavors has worked especially well.  I have had to add a few more spices or layer more flavor into the dishes to meet my personal tastes but the recipes themselves are a good inspiration.  I highly recommend you subscribe to this magazine or pick up a copy at your local store if you are interested in more than “just” the recipes from Italy.  This magazine offers something special you won’t find very often in the world of mass publications.